Question from Chris H:
Q – What is the best way to get oil out of a reactive resin ball?  I have heard placing the ball in a oven, to a warm water bath with dawn, or placing ball outside in warm weather?

A – We do not suggest any of the methods you mentioned.  Ball manufacturers do not endorse those methods either and they all can lead to damage to your ball.

We suggest using an oil free or microfiber towel during bowling and using an approved bowling ball cleaner after each time you bowl.  What you want to do is use the towel to remove the oil that is not absorbed into the cover and then use an oil remover/cleaner afterwards to help draw out the oil that was absorbed.

In The Pro Shop
Today we will show you how to use a microfiber or oil free towel and also how to apply ball cleaner to your ball.

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Answer to last weeks question:
Q – How much pressure impacts the lane when a 16 lb ball meets the surface of the lane?

A – 1800 pounds per square inch
Congrats to kingpin for answering correctly

This weeks question:
Q – When King Henry VIII outlawed bowling, he gave three reasons, what were they?

  7 Responses to “Talk Bowling #59 – How to Remove Oil From a Bowling Ball”

  1. Can you tell me how to adjust to different oil patterns. Like when its a short patterns vrs. a longer oil pattern.

    • Curtis,

      Impossible to cover the wide range of information regarding lane conditions in a quick tip or two. For complete and detailed information, you may wish to seek a U.S.B.C. certified coach or a local professional player or perhaps an experienced pro shop operator who can address lane oiling patterns and maintenance procedures with you directly.

      Your specific request addresses the distance oil is applied. In general, the shorter distance oil is applied by a lane machine, the closer the break point on the lane is to the edge of the lane. The longer the distance oil is applied to the lane, the break point moves closer to the center of the lane.

      Most normal house oiling conditions you might expect to encounter, in league play as example, range from perhaps 36' distance to 42' distance. The break point is typically located about 5' – 7' past the final distance oil is applied to the lane surface.

      Let's use 6' for sake of discussion. On the 36' pattern, the break point is about 42' down the lane and on the 42' pattern, the break point is about 48' down the lane.

      The pocket is approximately 60' from the foul line so in the case of the short oil pattern, your ball will take its break and begin hooking to the pocket about 42' down the lane and travel about 18' to the pocket at the angle of entry the ball and your release create.

      On the longer oil pattern, your ball should begin its break to the pocket about 48' or only about 12' from the pocket.

      Is is easy to understand that if a ball has a shorter distance to travel and to hook, the overall number of boards crossed on the lane is fewer than a ball traveling a greater distance at the same angle of entry. Thus, the short oil pattern produces a break point closer to the edge of the lane and the longer distance oil pattern produces a break point closer to the center of the lane.

      Depending on the amount of oil on the front end of the lane, your angle at release down the lane to the break point on a given distance pattern will vary.

      On heavy oil, you will likely take a more direct angle to the break point and on dry lanes, a wider angle down the lane to the same break point.

      Also, a bowler must factor the selection of bowling balls into this process of targeting the break point down the lane. On longer oil patterns, you may not wish to see a strong hook angle to the pocket since the ball will not have as long of a distance to travel on the dry back end of the lane as is the case with a shorter distance pattern.

      Using a lower to medium differential or flare potential ball might be a good choice on longer distance patterns, particularly for medium to low "rev" players. High "rev" players will use a low differential ball so the ball will not hook unpredicatbly from the break point to the pocket.

      Remember Curtis, the new bowling balls also influence the break point. Use of a very aggressive coverstock ball will certainly hook before the break point created by the oil pattern so you must be careful to select an aggressive ball on heavy oil conditions and not so much on dry conditions so you can match the break point of the ball to the break point on the lane.

      Use of a stiff or pearl coverstock on dry lanes will help you skid the ball sufficiently so the ball reacts more dependably traveling down the lane toward the break point on the back end of the lane.

      if any of this information is confusing, please consult a local professional or certified coach to develop a strategy for playing lanes and understanding various distance oil patterns.

      The cross lane and down lane ratios of oil application to the lane surface are also big factors in targeting and alignment. Entire portions of bowling schools are dedicated to lane play so kindly do not expect anything more information-wise than addressed in this reply message!

      We hope some of this information helps you better understand the science of oil patterns and lane play? The best of luck to you, sir.

  2. Hi Manny,
    I would really appricate if you(John or Tony) could email me a bowlingball.com copon. Thanks

  3. King Henry VIII outlawed bowling because:
    1. He believed that bowling had become a vicious form of gambling.
    2. His soldiers were spending too much time bowling.
    3. Bowling was a privilege to the wealthy.

  4. Brunswick has proven that the Revivor® and the Rejuvenator® work (with no detriment to the ball) because of heat. The “expansion” you refer to is due to EXCESSIVE heat (over 150°F), not due to heating the ball itself. There is no credible evidence to suggest that simply heating a ball will damage it in any way. There is, however, a huge amount of evidence to suggest that lackadaisical heating at too high of a temperature, or for too long, will.
    Since we as people want things NOW, this is why people stick a ball in the home oven, with no circulation, set on 450°F, leave it in there for too long and make it look like the Bonneville Salt Flats. Careful, and EVEN, heating of a ball is, by far, the BEST way to remove oil (though I don’t generally suggest it, simply because most people lack the patience and attention to detail that it requires).

    • Could not agree more…patience is the key…using a high speed spinner and appropriate grit pads to alter surface texture on bowling balls is better than doing a quick, inconsistent job by hand in the same way using a Revivor or Rejuvenator will do a better job than sticking a ball into a cooking oven at a high heat for a very long time and expecting professional results….Leave the job to the professionals to protect the bowling ball investment and to get the most desired results…

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