Jan 262009

Have you wanted to make your current bowling ball work in heavier oil and just didn’t know how. We give you some ideas on what you can do to make it work.

 Posted by at 9:59 pm

  4 Responses to “Talk Bowling #10 – How To Hook a Bowling Ball in Heavy Oil”

  1. Nice episode guys! Had a few questions that might help the viewers/bowlers. When talking about "timing"…. is there any recommendations that you would give to make sure that you as a bowler can stay in sequence. (visual aids, counting, pre-shot routine). I know that if your timing is late the probability of the bowlers throwing the ball out the window drastically increases, on the opposite end of the spectrum, if your timing is early the likely hood of the bowler to tug the ball increases as well……… any help?


    I was wondering if you thought demographically speaking that certain regions of the nation throw certain equipment brands. Does the Florida area have more bowlers using Storm?? Does the mid-west throw something else? Just wondering. I know Brian bowled college bowling, and bowled for Vincennes for a while and then transfered to Central Floria. Any opinions on this?


    Eric Conchola

  2. Would be nice if this would play…

  3. You might want to go into a little bit about breakpoint theory as well. On true heavy oil your not going to 'hook' the bowling ball as there really isn't any friction to allow that to happen. The goal is just to get the ball into a decent roll. Also many times on heavy oil patterns, you have to move left, not right, playing more of a 'fall back' type shot rather than trying to point the ball off the corner. Many times on tight conditions it's almost impossible to point the ball as if you miss your target at all your not going to leave anything that can be converted easily. If you miss right just the tiniest amount and the ball will hydroplane off the lane, and if you tug it at all it will duck hook through the face at the end of the pattern. Many times it's easier to play smaller angles through the front like 20-22 at the arrows, to 17-18 off the end of the pattern and allow the ball to just tip in the pocket high flush. If you miss your target playing in you will leave more makeable spares (ie: 1-2-4's as opposed to washouts and 2-8-10's. If you miss left you will just go brooklyn more often, than going big four or 3-6-9-10's which are almost as bad as split on these types of patterns.

  4. Hey guys. Quick question. This question was asked to me by someone and I didn't know to answer them correctly. When you have a ball that is at, say 4000 abralon finish, and you take the finish down to something like 1000 or lower to "rough up" the surface for a heavier oil pattern, does this actually take away from the ball's surface? What I mean is, will the diameter of the bowling ball actually decrease as you rough it up? Because it seems like when you rough up the ball, you would be almost sanding away some of the surface. This question really got me thinking and I don't know the answer. What do you guys think?

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