Oct 262009

Have you ever wondered what the target temperature for a bowling center is?  Did you know that the humidity level in a bowling center can affect the lane conditions and the way that oil moves on the lane?  Watch this episode to learn more.

 Posted by at 7:08 am

  7 Responses to “Talk Bowling #36 – Bowling Center Temperature and Humidity”

  1. my bowling centre is to hot in winter and to cold in summer

  2. This has nothing to do with this episode but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on how to improve accuracy with hitting your targets. Is there any drills or practice routines that I can do to improve my accuracy?

    • jack.. get some one to help stop and roll the ball back to you then put a quarter on the floor stand about 5 feet back, go down on one knee and throw the ball across the quarter then have the person stop it and roll it back to you then repeat. i know it sounds kinda stupid but it worked for me and a few other people on my leauge

  3. I just found this website and think its great!

    This has nothing to do with this show either but I was wondering if you could explain why the newer high performance balls experience "roll out" on medium lanes and not on lanes with heave oil. I would think that a strong ball with a lot of friction would curve more on a dryer surface.

    I'm asking this because my ball (virtrual gravity) has been rolling out on me during league play. I bought it thinking it would curve more?? I switched back to my columbia game pearl and it worked great. I'm not positive how it was drilled but i think it was pin up, 3-1/8in pin-to-PAP, and 5-7/8 in mb-to-PAP assuming the balance hole is on my PAP. I'm a low speed, low-med rev bowler.

    Could this be a drilling issue or just the wrong ball selection?

    Thanks for the assistance!

    • Cory,
      In order to understand exactly what is happening, you need to understand how a ball transitions as it makes its way down the lane. Initially, the ball is skidding down the lane rotating about the PAP (or close to it) with what ever axis of rotation you give it. Most league bowlers are between 45 and 60 degrees, although it is becoming more common to see much lower axis of rotations. As the ball skids, the ball begins to pick up roll (for lack of a better term) this decreases the axis of rotation. Once the ball encounters sufficient friction at the proper speed, the axis of rotation will cause the ball to turn. Eventually, the ball will be moving in the same direction as the axis of rotation and the ball will roll. For optimal carry, a ball must be rolling when it hits the pins. A ball that is skidding or hooking will not deflect properly.

      Now, looking at your equipment, you have two extremely different surface preps, the VG is a high-friction surface the pearl is probably polished.

      The higher the friction surface on the ball the sooner and quicker the ball will lose axis of rotation. Keep in mind that early loss of axis of rotation does not necessarily mean early hook. The ball needs the proper combination of friction, speed, and rev-rate to hook. When your, VG is reaching that combination, the ball has used up almost all of its axis of rotation and the ball hardly hooks at all.

      Have your Pro Shop either bring the surface up to 4000 abralon, or lightly polish it if you want to use it on the medium condition. But, remember the VG is a heavy oil ball.

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